Samuel Billaud, Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir, 2023 SO071426 Lapierre A magnum wants a table

A magnum wants a table of six and a few unhurried hours

which makes this all the more of a discovery

run today by Frédéric Lafarge and his daughter Clothilde — and this Aligoté Doré is one of the most singular wines they make

The Basalt Juice is Jász Laci's name for his 2019 Juhfark

Taken and The Fifth Element

Samuel Billaud, Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir, 2023 SO071426 Lapierre A magnum wants a tableVaudesir is a natural amphitheatre folded into the middle of the Grand Cru hill, and that fold is what makes the wine: two slopes face each other across it, one warm and early ripening, the other cool and late. Billaud owns plots on both sides and picks them a day or two apart before blending the warm side brings perfume and flesh, the cool side brings tension, and in a sunny vintage like 2023 that cool side is the insurance policy. Fifteen odd