Pax Wine Cellars, Syrah Sonoma Hillsides, 2023 BDXCOUNT0606 with Heidi von der Mehden

with Heidi von der Mehden — Merry's longtime protege — making the wine

the vines compete fiercely

just depth through restraint

Les Terres Froides is its taut

Madrecuixe barely looks like an agave: instead of the fat pineapple most people picture

Pax Wine Cellars, Syrah Sonoma Hillsides, 2023 BDXCOUNT0606 with Heidi von der MehdenPax Wine Cellars makes cool climate Sonoma Syrah in an unabashedly old world style, full of pepper, earth, and savory complexity. Sonoma Hillsides comes from hillside sites that add structure and a tarry, mineral depth to the wine. The 2023 shows dark plum, black olive, white pepper, and wet stone, with silky texture and the backbone to age. Give it air now or tuck it away for a few years. Pre arrival, ETA late June.